Mystras
A day trip from the studio
Mystras: Sparta's Byzantine Castle Town
Just a ten-minute drive from my garden studio in Sparta, an entire Byzantine city climbs the slopes of Mount Taygetos. Mystras — once called the Wonder of the Morea — is where the Byzantine Empire lived its final, most brilliant chapter. If you're visiting my workshop, this is the one place you shouldn't miss.
What is Mystras?
Mystras is a fortified castle town in Laconia, in the Peloponnese, built on a spur of the Taygetos mountains above the valley of ancient Sparta. In the 14th and 15th centuries it served as the capital of the Despotate of the Morea, the Byzantine province that flourished culturally even as the empire itself was fading. Philosophers, architects and painters gathered here — among them Gemistos Plethon, whose ideas later helped spark the Italian Renaissance. Constantine XI Palaiologos, the last Byzantine emperor, ruled as Despot of Mystras before taking the throne in Constantinople.
Because it survives as one of the best-preserved Byzantine cities anywhere, Mystras was inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List in 1989. Today its churches, monasteries, palace and winding stone footpaths are an open-air museum — still inhabited only by the nuns of the Pantanassa Monastery.
A short history
- 1249The Frankish prince William II of Villehardouin builds the fortress on the hilltop after conquering the region.
- 1262Following his capture in battle, William cedes Mystras to the restored Byzantine Empire. The people of the Spartan valley move up to the safety of the hill, and a town grows beneath the castle.
- 1349Mystras becomes the seat of the Despotate of the Morea. Its golden age begins — churches rise, frescoes are painted, libraries fill.
- 1449Constantine XI Palaiologos, Despot of Mystras, becomes the last emperor of Byzantium.
- 1460The city surrenders to the Ottomans, seven years after the fall of Constantinople.
- 1830sAfter centuries of decline, the town is abandoned and modern Sparta is founded a few kilometres to the east.
- 1989Mystras is declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
- 2026The Palace of the Despots reopens after 42 years of restoration.
What to see
The Palace of the Despots
The great L-shaped palace dominates the square of the Upper Town. Built in phases from the 13th to the 15th century, its final wing was crowned by a vast audience hall where the Despots held court. Newly restored and open again, it's now the highlight of any visit.
The churches and their frescoes
Mystras is famous for its painted churches: the Metropolis of Saint Demetrios, Hagia Sophia (the palace chapel), the Peribleptos Monastery and the Hodegetria. Their frescoes are among the finest works of late Byzantine art — walls covered edge to edge in colour and gold, made with the same devotion to small pieces forming a greater whole that lives on in mosaic art today.
Pantanassa Monastery
The only part of Mystras still inhabited. The nuns keep the monastery alive with flowers and hospitality, and the view over the Evrotas valley from its terrace is unforgettable.
The Castle of Villehardouin
For the sure-footed, the climb to the citadel at the very top rewards you with a panorama over the whole castle town, the plain of Sparta and the Taygetos peaks.
Plan your visit
Mystras is about 6 km west of Sparta — a short drive, with the entrances at the lower town and the upper castle. Wear good shoes: the streets are steep cobbled footpaths, and exploring properly takes two to four hours. Go early in the morning or late in the afternoon in summer, and carry water. The modern village of Mystras below the site is full of welcoming tavernas and guesthouses for lunch after your walk — reviewers on Tripadvisor consistently rate the archaeological site among the top experiences in the whole region.
From Byzantine walls to your own hands
The artists of Mystras built beauty piece by piece — stone, glass and pigment forming images meant to last centuries. That is exactly the craft I keep alive in my garden studio in Sparta, ten minutes from the castle town. Visit Mystras in the morning, then spend your afternoon creating your own mosaic to take home.
Book a Mosaic WorkshopCurious about more mosaic history nearby? Explore the House of Mosaics.